Desert Woods Journal

Central Oregon’s Premier Outdoor Blog

How to Summit Three Fingered Jack

☠️ Summiting can be deadly; know your limits, have a navigation system in place, and understand that rocks can shift at anytime. Use caution when pulling on rocks for hand and foot holds; holds have the potential to blow out and cause you to fall to your death.

Did you know Three Fingered Jack is often compared to Oregon’s version of the Matterhorn? This jagged and iconic peak, located in Central Oregon, offers a challenging yet awe-inspiring adventure for experienced climbers and hikers.


🌋 A Glimpse Into Three Fingered Jack’s Past

Three Fingered Jack is a heavily weathered and eroded shield volcano with a composition of mostly basaltic andesite. Estimated to be between 500,000 to 250,000 years old, this extinct volcano’s dramatic spires and ridges are shaped by centuries of volcanic activity and glacial erosion, making it one of the most captivating climbs in the state.


The Low-Down

  • 🅿️ Trailhead: Pacific Crest Trail – Santiam Pass
  • 🥾 Distance: 12.1 miles round-trip to the summit
  • 〽️ Elevation Gain: 2,752’
  • 🚻 Restroom: Available at trailhead
  • 🌸 Accessibility: Year-round; requires ice climbing skills in winter and early spring.

The Climb: A Technical Adventure

Summiting Three Fingered Jack is an exhilarating journey requiring both skill and preparation. The ascent includes two notable pitches, each presenting unique challenges:

  1. The Crawl: A 15-foot low fifth-class traverse with significant exposure. Look for two pitons available to clip into for protection. Solid handholds, or “jugs,” are easy to spot and use here.
  2. The Chimney: A steep, 15-foot climb rated at 5.2. This section requires climbing gear, such as cams and nuts, to safely ascend.

At the end of each pitch, you’ll find webbing for belaying and rappelling, but always bring your own webbing and rap rings to ensure safety in case the existing gear appears worn or unsafe.


Recommended Gear

For this climb, we recommend the following equipment:

  • Cams: Singles of 0.75 to 2 inches
  • Rope: A 35-meter rope is sufficient
  • Webbing and Rap Rings: For backup and added safety
  • Helmet: Protect against falling rocks

Experience the Outdoors With Us

Three Fingered Jack offers an adventure that’s as rewarding as it is challenging. If you’re interested in personalized guidance or exploring unique routes, consider booking a private outdoor recreation consulting session with Recreation Leader.

Looking for a more structured adventure? Our membership program provides free guided hikes, downloadable resources, and access to exclusive experiences designed to enhance your connection to the outdoors.

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Final Thoughts

Whether you’re taking on the technical climb of Three Fingered Jack or simply marveling at its rugged beauty, this adventure invites you to connect with the land in a meaningful way. Remember, every step and hold is a moment to reflect on the journey rather than the destination.

Have you climbed Three Fingered Jack or is it on your adventure list? Share your experience in the comments below!


Tags

Three Fingered Jack, Central Oregon hikes, Oregon volcanoes, mountaineering in Oregon, summit challenges, outdoor adventures, Pacific Crest Trail, Oregon climbing, Recreation Leader, outdoor consulting, hiking safety, Central Oregon trails

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