Smith Rock State Park is a climbing mecca, home to iconic routes that challenge and inspire adventurers from around the world. Among these is Dirty Pinkos, a 5.9+ sport multipitch that promises an unforgettable experience with its unique 120-foot traverse and stunning views of the park’s eastern side. If youβre looking for a climb that blends technical challenges, rewarding pitches, and breathtaking scenery, Dirty Pinkos is a must-try.
Overview of Dirty Pinkos
π Location: Smith Rock State Park, Eastern Side
π§ββοΈ Route Type: Sport multipitch
π Rating: 5.9+
π― Notable Features:
- A 120-foot traverse on the third pitch
- Tops out on Misery Ridge
π‘ Pro Tip: All route beta is available on Mountain Project.
The Climb: Pitch-by-Pitch Breakdown
Pitch 1: Warm-Up Slab
The climb begins on a slab that ascends along a left corner. This pitch is straightforward and enjoyable, ending at a comfortable top-belay station. Itβs a great introduction to what lies ahead.
Pitch 2: The Crux
The second pitch is the crux of Dirty Pinkos, featuring technical climbing with thoughtful movement. This section will test your skills and ends on a hanging belay, so be prepared for an exhilarating challenge at the 5.9+ grade.
Pitch 3: The Money Pitch
This is where Dirty Pinkos earns its reputation. The third pitch is a stunning 120-foot traverse to the right, requiring 16 quickdraws. With significant rope drag, climbers are advised to bring alpine draws for smoother movement and to reduce friction. The exposure on this pitch is unmatched, offering panoramic views of the park as you move horizontally across the face.
Pitch 4: Topping Out on Misery Ridge
The final pitch starts on an easy 5.5 slab before transitioning to a slight overhang with a 5.8 crux. The climb finishes with a rewarding top-out on Misery Ridge, providing incredible views and a sense of accomplishment after this adventurous route.
Descent Options
π₯ Hike Down Misery Ridge
We highly recommend hiking down Misery Ridge rather than rappelling. The hike is straightforward and allows you to fully enjoy the views as you descend.
π₯ Rappelling Caution
If you choose to rappel, note that it requires descending a different route, which can be confusing. With a 70m rope, you may be short-changed by about 15 feet, forcing you to scramble down a rock face without protection. For safety and ease, the Misery Ridge hike is the better choice.
Tips for Climbing Dirty Pinkos
- Gear Up: Bring 16 quickdraws, including alpine draws, to minimize rope drag on the traverse.
- Plan Your Descent: Avoid the rappel unless youβre familiar with the alternative route and comfortable with potential scrambling.
- Check Beta: Refer to Mountain Project for detailed route beta and updates.
- Timing: Start early to avoid crowds and enjoy cooler conditions on the rock.
Final Thoughts
Dirty Pinkos offers everything you could want in a sport multipitch: technical challenges, unique features like the 120-foot traverse, and a spectacular top-out on Misery Ridge. Whether youβre a seasoned climber or looking to push your limits, this route delivers an unforgettable experience in one of Oregonβs most iconic climbing destinations.
Have you climbed Dirty Pinkos, or is it on your bucket list? Share your thoughts and stories in the comments belowβweβd love to hear about your adventure! π
Tags
Dirty Pinkos, Smith Rock State Park, Oregon climbing, sport multipitch, 5.9+ climbing, Misery Ridge, alpine draws, climbing guides, outdoor adventure, technical climbs, panoramic views, Mountain Project beta.
