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Smith Rock State Park, located in Central Oregon, is known worldwide as a premier destination for sport climbing, with its towering walls of welded tuff and basalt offering climbers routes of all grades. While Smith Rock is famous for its single-pitch sport climbs, it’s also home to some stellar multipitch adventures that will have you soaring high above the Crooked River with stunning views and epic exposure.

In this post, I’ll highlight the top 3 multipitch sport climbs at Smith Rock, covering everything from pitch-by-pitch details to what you need to bring for these classic routes.

1. Wherever I May Roam (5.9, 3 Pitches)

One of the most approachable multipitches for those looking to break into the sport, Wherever I May Roam is a must-do route that offers exciting climbing with excellent exposure without pushing you into advanced territory. Located on Picnic Lunch Wall, this climb is known for its solid rock, well-protected pitches, and breathtaking views from the top.

• Pitch 1 (5.7): The first pitch follows a low-angle face with plentiful holds, making it a good warm-up. The climbing is straightforward but offers fun movement as you follow the bolt line up to the first belay station.
• Pitch 2 (5.9): The crux of the climb, this pitch offers a mix of balancey face climbing with a few steeper sections. Trust your feet as you navigate the small crimps and edges.
• Pitch 3 (5.8): A fun, more vertical pitch with solid holds and a few exposed moves near the top. As you crest over the last ledge, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of Smith Rock, the Crooked River, and the Cascade Range in the distance.

Descent: Rappel off the bolted anchors back to the base of the wall or follow the walk-off trail.

Pro Tip: This climb is popular, so try to get an early start or come midweek to avoid crowds.

2. Spiderman (5.7, 4 Pitches)

If you’re looking for a classic adventure that’s friendly for newer multipitch climbers, Spiderman is the perfect choice. This 4-pitch route on the Morning Glory Wall is one of Smith Rock’s most iconic climbs, offering moderate climbing with incredible exposure as you work your way higher above the valley.

• Pitch 1 (5.6): The climb starts off on easy terrain with a straightforward slab, working up the face with a few fun moves that keep things interesting. Make your way to the first anchor for a comfortable belay ledge.
• Pitch 2 (5.7): A little steeper than the first, this pitch offers fun sequences with good holds. The crux is a small bulge that requires some balance and precise footwork.
• Pitch 3 (5.7): This pitch follows a crack system with some enjoyable stemming and jamming moves, adding variety to the route. The exposure really starts to kick in here, making the climbing feel more exciting.
• Pitch 4 (5.7): The final pitch ascends a beautiful slab with a few tricky sequences before reaching the summit. The top-out gives you an amazing view of the Cascade Mountains, and you’ll feel on top of the world.

Descent: Walk off the back side of the formation via a straightforward hiking trail.

Pro Tip: Bring extra water if you’re climbing this in the warmer months—Smith Rock can get hot, and there’s not much shade.

3. Voyage of the Cowdog (5.10a, 3 Pitches)

For those looking for something a bit more challenging, Voyage of the Cowdog on the Mesa Verde Wall offers a fantastic mix of technical face climbing and steep sequences. This multipitch climb is ideal for experienced climbers ready to push their limits.

• Pitch 1 (5.9): The opening pitch gets your heart pumping with thin, technical face climbing. Expect to rely on small holds and precise foot placements to move efficiently up the wall. The first anchor comes after about 90 feet of climbing.
• Pitch 2 (5.10a): The crux pitch delivers delicate moves on a steep face. There are a few well-protected cruxes, but good holds are there if you stay calm and trust your technique. This pitch is mentally engaging and rewarding.
• Pitch 3 (5.9): The final pitch eases off a bit but still keeps the fun going with steep sections and excellent exposure. The rock quality is superb, and the route finishes on a beautiful slab with stunning views of the Smith Rock Group and the Deschutes River far below.

Descent: Rappel the route using the bolted anchors or hike off the back.

Pro Tip: Since the crux pitch is a bit more technical, consider bringing a chalk bag and an extra belay device for efficient rope management.

Plan Your Visit

Before heading out, check my Planning & Updates page for current conditions and trail information. Smith Rock can get busy, especially during the weekends, so make sure to plan your climb accordingly.

For an ethical and enjoyable climbing experience, be sure to review my Outdoor Ethos Guide, which encourages mindful climbing practices focused on leadership, education, and community. By following this ethos, you’ll not only have an epic adventure but also help protect Smith Rock for future generations.

What to Bring

Here’s a quick list of essentials to pack for a multipitch day at Smith Rock:

• Climbing gear: Bring your harness, helmet, belay device, and a double rack of quickdraws.
• Climbing shoes: I recommend the La Sportiva Mythos or similar, offering a great balance of comfort and precision.
• Sun protection: The sun can be relentless—don’t forget sunscreen and a sun hat.
• Water: Carry at least 2 liters of water in a hydration pack to stay hydrated on the wall.
• Snack fuel: Pack some energy bars or trail mix for those long climbs.

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Smith Rock is a dream for sport climbers, and these three multipitch climbs will test your skills, reward you with stunning views, and give you the satisfaction of topping out high above the iconic Oregon landscape. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to push your limits, these routes offer a perfect adventure for any climber.

Happy climbing!